So…. I don’t know why I got it in my head that today’s hike was supposed to be relatively light & easy… I guess because it’s technical a city park? Well, it’s a good thing we visited the museum and gardens yesterday but I’m not convinced I’d have had the energy for it today. Because it turns out, it was pretty long (11km) and a 400+ metre ascent.
We started out early from our hotel, skipping the beginning part of the hike since it starts from the middle of town and we would end in town so we’d just pick that up on on the way back. Our hotel has a little path to the little bay that it backs onto, which gave us a nice little shortcut to get into the fort where the hike really does begin.
Monte Brasil is a volcano that is mostly covered in trees but does have an active military presence and a tonne of paths, trails and picnic areas with easy access by car. We, of course, opted for the hard way of hiking it. Once past the fort, we took a little side path that led us along side the volcano, overlooking the town and harbour. The day seemed more smokey than cloudy but I have no idea where the smoke would have been coming from so I assume it was just clouds. We got lovely views of the harbour before partially doubling back to take a side path up a steep grassy incline. That led to another incline with some stairs before another incline on a cement road before we finally reached the peak of Monte Brasil at Pico do Facho. It has an old telegraph site on it, which was interesting to see. Then, it was time to start descending on a series of switchbacks that had fitness equipment scattered along it. We didn’t see anyone using the equipment but we did see a jogger heading up. Her lungs must be in fantastic shape. We took another little cut off path that was much rockier (thank you, hiking pole, for your assistance here!) that led us down to a ruined fort at the edge of a cliff before we started climbing again. While Monte Brasil looks like two big hills (are they hills? are they mountains? They feel like mountains to me…) I think it’s just one with a volcano crater that makes it look like two. Anyway, the point is, we dipped and then started climbing to another peak again. We went to another summit where the whale watchers watch from and a third that was used as a WWII lookout. Heading back down, we walked along the edge of the crater for a bit, which is now used for target practice. Then, we climbed AGAIN but this time on much softer terrain up into the main park area where suddenly, there were tonnes of people. We had seen a few walkers at the beginning of our hike but we were soon the only people around, aside from a couple of joggers, a biker and one other hiker that we saw for a very short time. Anyway. We got up to another peak that gave us lovely views before starting to head back down to town, passing a petting zoo (with a cage parrot that very much wanted to be free…) and lots of picnic areas. It was a really popular area to be, and I can’t say I blame people - it was so lovely.
Eventually, we got back out and started to head into town, watching a tour bus squeeze through a very narrow arch (it made it) and tucking down along the water where we could before coming to a small cafe on the harbour for some delicious sandwiches, more kima (have I mentioned kima? We discovered it on our last hiking day - it’s a passionfruit soda that’s delicious.) The cafe also had ice cream, which was obviously something I was interested in since the day was now quite sunny & warm but as I played around on my phone while EDP was ordering, I found a lovely little bakery that I thought would be a nice place to stop in at for some treats that we’d both enjoy on our way back to the hotel, instead. I’m so selfless, sometimes. We went back up into the main part of town, passing the most beautiful blue church that I think might be my favourite church - it’s just so cheerful on the outside! There’s also a bright pink one that we’ve passed a few times, as well. I’m so torn about tucking inside because the inside is either going to be a massive disappointment compared to the outside OR it might be equally bright and cheerful? Anyway. I love this church. We got some treats (including the small cake that the island is famous for - I had one at breakfast and it was a bit sweet but I’m assuming a proper bakery will do a much better job than a hotel buffet) and some wine and had some nice balcony time back at the hotel before dinner.
Which was amazing. EDP found this tiny little restaurant for us so we set back off into the centre of town for this charming little restaurant that had a very limited menu since it was focused on fresh fish, cause each day. They had two whole fishes and two fillets - so we each ordered one of the fresh fillets. Mine was parrot fish and I can’t remember what EDP’s was but they were delicious. It was the kind of meal that is very simple but shows the skill of the chef. SO GOOD. As good as my tuna from our first night in Ponta Delgada. We topped our evening off with dessert, where I got my long-awaited ice cream (fresh passionfruit.) SO GOOD.
Tomorrow is our whale watching tour - we likely won’t see whales given the time of year and today wasn’t a great day for being on the water so it might end up being just a really nice boat ride but my fingers are crossed.
